Fuel Pump Driver Module Products When your vehicle starts to experience stalling or uneven idling, there are a lot of parts to consider checking. One of these would be the fuel pump driver module that controls the high-pressure fuel pumps of modern, fuel-injected engines. It does this by controlling the voltage of the fuel pump so it can deliver optimum fuel pressure to the engine. Should this component fail, your vehicle will have no way of controlling the fuel pump, which would lead to stalling and other engine problems. You can easily diagnose this component on your own with the help of an electronic handheld scanner that will automatically check if your fuel pump driver needs to be replaced already. If you want to check on this device yourself, it is mostly installed near the fuel pump itself although it may differ from vehicle to vehicle so it would be best to check your owner's manual just to be sure. If you're able to trace a problem down to a faulty pump driver module, it should be easy enough to replace on your own.
You simply have to disconnect the device's wiring, unbolt it from its mount, and then fit in a brand new replacement. If you're not sure that you can do this on your own, then it's best to have a mechanic install it for you instead. A broken fuel pump driver module can cause a lot of problems for your vehicle if ignored altogether and can even lead to total engine failure should it fail entirely while your engine is running at full speed. Don't wait until it ruins your ride, find a suitable aftermarket replacement only here at Auto Parts Warehouse. We've been in the business since 1995 and have since grown to one of the best and largest online car parts and accessories store in the United States today. Our huge selection of aftermarket parts should allow you to search for the exact component that you need for any vehicle make or model. Best of all, all of our products are heavily discounted that you can save as much as 70% from regular prices.
We also offer you perks such as a Price Match Guarantee, free shipping on orders above $50, and a variety of payment plans and warranty options. What's more, we practically deliver anywhere in the United States and orders are shipped instantly with our host of strategically placed warehouses all over the country. So hurry and get your car fixed by ordering a compatible fuel pump driver module replacement component only here at Auto Parts Warehouse.
The main role of a fuel pump driver module is to control the voltage needed to operate a vehicle's fuel pump. By doing this, it helps maintain the right amount of fuel pressure going to the engine. A failing fuel pump driver module is not an unusual thing to come about, since this component is one the most vulnerable parts of your vehicle's fuel system. Poor engine performance is the most prevalent indication of a faulty fuel pump driver module. Replacement is the best solution if you've been experiencing this symptom.
Here's how you can do it as a DIY task: Difficulty level: Moderate What you'll need:. Wrench. Socket set. Replacement fuel pump driver module.
Owner's manual Step 1: Park your car on a flat and level surface to ensure that it will not shift while you're doing the rest of the procedure. Since you're working with the fuel system of your vehicle, you need to make sure that there are no flammable devices and chemicals near you.
It's highly recommended that you do this procedure on an isolated place to ensure maximum safety. Step 2: Carefully release the fuel system pressure by removing the fuel pump relay first before letting the engine go idle until it stalls. Releasing the pressure prevents the fuel from dangerously spraying once you disconnect a fuel system component. It's absolutely important that you do this procedure when it comes to servicing any part of your vehicle's fuel system. Step 3: Raise your car's hood and locate the battery. Carefully disconnect the negative cable from its ground terminal.
Step 4: Open the trunk of your car and locate the fuel pump driver module. This is usually found at the driver's side of the rear passenger seat. If you can't find its exact location, consult your vehicle's manual for additional instructions. Step 5: Once you've successfully found the fuel pump driver module, pull up the carpeting over the area where it's located. After pulling back the carpet, you'll be able to gain unrestricted access to the fuel pump driver module. This generally looks like a small black rectangular box that's bolted onto your vehicle's body.
Step 6: Remove the damaged fuel pump driver module from your car by simply detaching the bolts that's securing it in place. Take a wrench and start unfastening them one by one.
Make sure that you place each bolt on an organized area to keep them from getting lost. Step 7: After successfully unbolting the faulty fuel pump driver module, detach the wires connected to its bottom portion. Do this with care to avoid damaging any of the wiring harness. Step 8: Put the replacement fuel pump driver module in place. Step 9: Plug the wires into the new fuel pump driver module, and then secure it with bolts. Make sure that it's properly aligned in its mounting place to keep it from getting damaged or detached.
Step 10: Reconnect the negative cable to the battery and reattach the fuel pump relay as well. The whole process of replacing a damaged fuel pump driver module on your vehicle takes about one and a half hour to finish.
Re-engineered to address failure points in the original materials and design, Dorman's Fuel Pump Driver Module is powder-coated for high corrosion resistance and long-lasting durability. Newly designed rubber bushings on the mounting screws help to sustain years of service. Dorman’s fully re-engineered micro-processor provides greater response time and reliability.
Comes with rubber mounting bushings to position the module away from the steel frame for increased protection from corrosion and damage to the metal housing. Regulates voltage to the fuel pump in order to maintain proper fuel pressure over the full operating range of the engine. Vehicle simulator testing has been conducted on this part to ensure quality performance Detailed Applications.
I am the owner of a 2001 Ford Focus. I have had a problem with lugging and sputtering upon acceleration.
1/24/05 my vehicle would not start. I contacted braeger Ford milwaukee wi, the car went there for service. They told me that the problem was a defective fuel pump.
I received a safety program notification that stated a dealer will replace the fuel pump at no charge to you program 03N01. Braeger charged me $511 saying that the pump replacement was not part of the program even though it was clearly stated on the information sent to me by the motor company. Milwaukee, WI, USA. When fuel tank registers 1/4 of a tank or less, car loses acceleration when going up a hill that curves to the right. Car stalls but will start again after a few minutes.
Later that same day the car stalled and would not start again had to have vehicle towed. Mechanic registered no problem and could not find anything wrong with car after driving it and checking on computer.
P1235 Ford F350
Car drove fine for two months then started hesitating when trying to accelerate. Car stalled and would not accelerate, even with a full tank of gas, car had to be towed to a mechanic who checked fuel pressure, said was fine and car drove with no problems. They could not pin point problem and computer registered no problems. Why hasn't this problem been fixed when so many people are experiencing the same problem? - Coral Springs, FL, USA. My car has been stalling now for about a year. I had it fixed at around 27,000 miles and I still had a factory warranty and I went to joe machens Ford in columbia, mo (where I bought the car in 10/01) and they said it was a wire on the transmission that was corroded.
About 3 weeks ago, this happened again and again I took it to joe machens and they told me there was nothing wrong with it. I had asked them to check again because this had happened about a year ago and it was transmission problems. They replaced some seals. Repair work took about a week. On June 4, 2004, I was going down I 270 in St.
2001 Ford Focus Zx3 Fuel Pump Driver Module
Louis, mo and I was in the fast lane going 75mph when my car stalled. It would not go and I am glad that I was going to the speed I was because as it was dying I was able to maneuver over to the side of the road.
Joe machens again fixed it and said that it was the fuel pump. They replaced my fuel pump and my fuel filter on June 8, 2004. On my way home from columbia, mo on June 11, 2004 it stalled again.
As of now I have not sent it any where to get it looked at because this happened last night on my way home from college. This will now be the fourth time this has happened with no results. Bowling Green, MO, USA. Car would lose power, buck and surge, stall on highway and side streets. When taken to dealership, tech couldn't give explanation for what particles were that clogged fuel pump. Charged for over $900. Tech said warranty didn't cover vandalism.
However, my insurance company ruled out vandalism upon investigation to the parts and fuel sample. Bottom line, I had to pay $900 for someting that at the time wasn't ruled a 'model' problem. Now I think I should be reimbursed. Fuel pump had to be replaced, lines flushed, and 'contaminated' fuel to be exposed of. Lakewood, OH, USA.
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While driving down a freeway off-ramp, my 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 started to buck and hesitate, eventually stalling and causing a dangerous condition due to sudden decceleration and loss of power steering and brakes. Luckily the vehicle had enough inertia to coast down the ramp and eventually I was able to pull it into an emergency lane using the remaining assist left in the brake booster. There, I attempted multiple times to restart the vehicle and it finally started. It had a half tank of fuel so low fuel level was not the cause and I had only driven 163 miles since the last fill-up so I knew the fuel guage was operational.
I attempted to drive to the nearest gas station to fill up just in case and as I as about to turn in the car died again. It restarted after multiple attempts and I waited a long time for traffic to get as clear as it would on this busy road. Then, as I attempted to turn in, creeping forward and fearing the worst, the car died again, but luckily I had not yet begun to impede oncoming traffic. If I had been, an accident would likely have resulted. After multiple attempts, the vehicle did start and I pulled in, filled up, and drove home uneventfully to do some research.
On the message board at focaljet.com I read about other Focus consumers encountering a similar problem with a defective fuel pump and some sort of degradation of a material lining the fuel tank causing the condition I experienced. I feel it is a safety concern of high priority and should be brought to Ford's attention immediately. I am angry that my life was put in danger running the most mundane of errands and I will let them know about it tommorrow. Oxford, GA, USA. I am writing to you in regard to a host of problems I am currently experiencing with my 2001 Ford Focus ZX3.these problems include, but are not limited to: (1) gears not shifting properly and signs of locking up during driving - and brake grinding sounds; (2) continuous 'flickering' of headlights and dashboard panel lights; (3) air conditioning and heating systems not functioning properly; (4) large pond of water (during heavy rains) in floor on front passenger side; (5) problems with fuel module and fuel monitor; and (6) transmission failure in progress. transmission failure in progress - ECM codes erased by dealership - fuel monitor and bad running condition very evident. he further stated the fluid is burnt very badly, he cannot service the transmission at this point and that this vehicle is going to go downhill from here. In other words, the 2001 Focus that I purchased from Town & Country Ford, Inc.
Only nine months ago is not drivable and it will cost at least $2,000 to replace the transmission. This is clearly a defect.
![Focus Focus](/uploads/1/2/3/8/123809623/824559426.jpg)
It has to be! I cannot afford to repair this vehicle and make payments on it at the same time. Gastonia, NC, USA. 2001 and up Ford Focus fuel pump & gas tank recall request. The fuel tank is made from a material that frequently flakes off and clogs the fuel pump very often.
I have had 3 fuel pumps replaced already, and my car has less than 21,000 miles. Due to the inferior design of the tank and fuel pump, the pump clogs too easily, then burns out leaving the car stranded. The design of the pump has a fine mesh screen before the larger screen so the large mesh screen is simply useless! The small screen clogs up from large flakes that would have been caught by the large screen if the pump had not been designed by retards.
Memphis, TN, USA. I was taking the South I-75 exit ramp to East M-59 and experienced a stall out at the bottom of the ramp - where you merge with traffic going 65 mph.
This is a wide, sweeping right hand turn. I drive the route often, and had experienced hesititation on previous occasions, but this was the first time the car stalled. The tank was 1/4 full. After rolling to a stop under the I-75 overpass bridge, I placed the car in neutral and it started. I proceeded without further incidence - counting my blessings I had not been rear-ended. I took the car to my regular mechanic, and he replaced the fuel pump which is located in the tank. He showed me how the filter was designed and became easily clogged.
He also said that Ford had other complaints on this situation, but there was no recall. I believe this to be a design defect that must be corrected, or I will be relacing the fuel pump in another 30K or so miles. It's not only the $300, but the thought of being rear-ended that should concern Ford Motor Company, as well as the authorities. Roseville, MI, USA. About CarComplaints.com CarComplaints.com is an online automotive complaint resource that uses graphs to show automotive defect patterns, based on complaint data submitted by visitors to the site. The complaints are organized into groups with data published by vehicle, vehicle component, and specific problem.
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![2007 ford focus fuel pump module 2007 ford focus fuel pump module](/uploads/1/2/3/8/123809623/251882694.jpg)
Trouble-free to install. Meticulously made to OE standards throughout whole development process. Suitable for broad assortment of import and domestic makes and models. Has undergone thorough inspection to guarantee consistent, lasting performance. DELPHI OE REPLACEMENT FUEL PUMPS Made in some of the industry's most sophisticated facilities and backed by years of OE expertise, Delphi OE replacement fuel pumps are guaranteed to deliver outstanding pump ability and generate excellent pressure using less electrical power.
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Anticipated Ship Out Time: 1-2 Business Days. Flow Rate: 60 gallons/hour. Includes: Fuel sender, float, strainer, O-ring. Inlet Type: Strainer. Notes: Fuel pump module assembly; 8 amps; 58 PSI System pressure.
Replaces OE Number: 1M5Z9H307AA, 1M5Z9H307CA, YS4Z9H307EA. Warranty: 1-year or 12,000-mile Delphi limited warranty. More results for 2001 Ford Focus Fuel Pump. PRECISE – OE REPLACEMENT FUEL PUMPS Choose Precise’s OE replacement fuel pumps for innovative, long-lasting fuel delivery performance. Precise is a leading manufacturer of OE replacement fuel pumps. GMB – OE REPLACEMENT FUEL PUMPS Meticulously formed to exceptional standards, GMB’s OE replacement fuel pumps are guaranteed to equip your ride with the finest quality and most enduring performance.
Motorcraft Fuel Pump is the ideal replacement if it is time to take care of your vehicle's fuel system. Motorcraft Fuel Pump is manufactured to satisfy or surpass Original Equipment (OE) technical.
Our (mine and my dad's) Focus died in the middle of the road last Friday, and it just broke my heart having to walk away from my beloved vehicle! Neither of us have much money, and we've dropped every dime we had trying to get it going again. I kinda wanted to get some unbiased opinions on what we should do next. A little background: during the week before it died, it had a hard time doing a cold start. Had to crank it twice, though it had always started as soon as I hit the key, summer or winter!
The few minutes before it died, it spitted, sputtered, and konked out in the turning lane 10 blocks from home. Cranked again, it fired a little, then nothing. My dad had it towed to a shop, who told us it was the fuel pump.AND. fuel pump driver module. I'm not much with electronics, I deal more with the mechanical side myself, but it seemed odd that both parts would have gone out at once.
I figured the garabe was just trying to cover all possibilities while trying to make a few extra (hundred) bucks. We replaced the fuel pump assembly. The whole thing, because that was the only part in stock at the time in the area. (I opted for ordering the pump itself, but there were other people in on the decisions).
Sooo, long story short, replacing the pump did nothing. I wanted to get an opinion on ordering the driver module, or perhaps look elsewhere for something else. Perhaps something that needs to be reset?
Or could the garage have been correct in that both parts did in fact go out? I've been going over these forums for the last 3 days trying to piece together the answers to these questions as much as possible, but most don't seem to apply directly to my situation. About all I could find was the location of the FPDM, which according to one person was under the front passenger seat? (Still like to get a second opinion on that too before I go ripping the car apart!) My dad and I are both down to borrowing money to finish the car up, so any help you guys can give will likely save us a lot of money!:). I have never seen/heard of a Fuel Pump Driver Module going bad, on any Ford. It's not the problem.
I would be more apt to believe that either the tech misspoke or you misunderstood. The fuel pump in newer vehicles is commonly referred to as a module. This is due to the parts involved with it's proper operation. The module consists of a canister that houses the pump and the fuel level sensor/arm. It's a few parts functioning as one, definition of a module.
On the early Foci there was a 'Customer Satisfaction' program where if you experienced stalling under cornering or any other condition Ford would replace the module free of charge. This was not a 'recall' as some claim it to be. There are different legal obligations to each.
The CS had a time expiration and was capped at cars built after mid-year 2001. It is no longer active.
Expired about 4 years ago IIRC. So it is a very good idea to replace the module with the new one.
Ford updated the design. The problem was linked to design flaws in the module/canister. The physical pump itself was not the problem directly. There is a lot of misunderstand on this entire subject.
The facts are, the pump was not the problem, it was never a recall, if you don't replace with the update module you will have problems again. Now as to your specific problem, Yes it does sound like a fuel related issue. Next question is, what module was it replaced with? (if the top had springs it is the correct module, you also should have had to cut the plastic tabs from the bottom inside of the fuel tank) If it wasn't the update pump, it will be fine for a while, best guess is more than 40,000 miles. Well enough time to get you money's worth out of it and save for the next time. It can happen that a non-Ford pump is DOA. You wouldn't be the first person to experience this unfortunate situation.
Talking with the parts store and inquiring about their return policy would be a good idea here. And be polite to them. It wasn't their fault. Do you happen to know if there are any pending/stored codes? For this you'll need an OBDII code reader.
You can 'rent' one from most parts stores. Or do you happen to remember any codes the shop may have told you? (maybe they are listed on the work order) Having a code to go on helps greatly. Two easy things you can check for free are the fuse's and the Fuel Pump Inertia Switch.
Fuses will be listed in your owners manual. Trust the manual and nothing listed on the fuse box covers, I've found more than a few cars where the covers don't match the fuse circuit. If you don't have an owners manual you can acquire one by clinking this link and downloading it - The inertia switch is located on the passenger side, kick panel.
You'll see a small triangle'ish shaped plastic tab. Remove it and push the button inside down. Try to start the car. If it starts the switch was activated somehow. One way I've seen it be falsely activated is due to wire strain. If the wires do not make good contact, power will be removed form the fuel pump, and the car stalls. Let me know what you find and I/we can probably help further.
You sound like the kinda person I'd like to have standing next to me when I do all this! So far the help I've had has all been guessing and Googling.:/ I did run across quite a few people online who've had issues with the FPDM (Error code P1235?) I had assumed mine had something similar if the tech told us to replace it in the diagnostic, but no error code was actually written on the work order. Either they were trying to make a few extra bucks, or it was just sloppy work in not writing down the code? In the end, we ended up replacing the FPDM. The one I pulled out was dated January 2001 - same year as the car, so I got a little hopeful!
But after all was said and done.no luck! I did check the fuses (I think thye were already checked by the other guy workign on it, but I had to double-check his work), I have no way of testing the relay that I know of, disconnected the battery for a while (as per Googling), hit the inertia reset button with the key off (several times), and tried to bleed the system by turning the key on multiple times for 5 seconds at a time. I never heard any noise from the tank, that I sometimes did in other cars when the car was turned and the pump kicks on. But I can't really remember if I ever heard the pump kick on in this car.
![2001 2001](https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/fordguy4u/2009-11-15_222733_A1.jpg)
The only possible lead I have is that.when the key is turned forward, the Check Engine light is on. I know that light has never been on when the engine is running, but not sure if it lights up when the key is turned & engine not started yet. For diagnostic purposes, it doesnt seem like that light should light up even without the engine running if there's no problem. So now I'm stuck at trying to get it on a machine. We had to borrow money to get the FPDM, so there's no way to tow it anywhere to plug it into a computer. The ironic thing is, the garage originally only wanted $400 to fix it.we've actually spent a little more than that doing it ourselves. (The $250 Bosch fuel pump assembly was what did us in.) Now it looks like it still has to go into the shop.:/ I did read about the so-called recall (what other people are calling it) with the pump assembly.
I came across a letter from Ford that said it was a flaw in the design of the strainer/filter, which on ours looked pretty dirty. I can't help but to raise an eyebrow at the idea of the non-Ford pump being DOA.
Bosch may be pretty good, but I guess every brand has it's few flukes in the bunch. Oh, I'd never go in to a store rippin someone a new one for sellin me a bad part. I've never been 'that guy'. I once got a bum wheel cylinder, installed by a garage, bought from their own supplier, broke the next day causing me to come very close to rear-ending a brand new Lincoln Continental. I was very nice about it and so were they!
Irrelevant, but thought I'd throw that in:) The link to the manual was also a big help! The car didn't have one when we bought it, and there've been quite a few times I needed it.
Perhaps in the interest of curiosity, I'll update this thread when the problem finally does get resolved. Don't wanna jinx myself by saying 'if'.
I Love my Fords.I have faith:P. The only possible lead I have is that.when the key is turned forward, the Check Engine light is on. I know that light has never been on when the engine is running, but not sure if it lights up when the key is turned & engine not started yet. For diagnostic purposes, it doesnt seem like that light should light up even without the engine running if there's no problem. The engine lamp is supposed to light up with every key cycle and illuminate for 5 seconds (something like that). As long as it lights up and goes off when you start the car, it's working. So lets try and get this no fuel pump priming thing fixed first.
The priming is controlled by the 'Power Hold Relay'. It's located in the underhood fuse box. When you turn the key to 'Run' power comes from the ignition switch to the PHR, from there it goes to the Fuel Pump Relay, on to the pump: So we've got 2 relays to check (we know the fuses are good, don't know if power is actually there, but lets assume it is). The relays are a bear to remove. Every time I try the plastic cover pulls off first.
If the cover pulls off the PHR, push the silver part with your finger (battery connected). You should hear the fuel pump prime. If it does that relay is good, as is the fuel pump relay. And if all that dies happen, it's not a fuel issue.
But lets just hope none of that happens and this is an easier fix. No fuel pump prime, disconnect the battery and remove the relay. If you look at the part # on it you'll see there are a couple in the box with that same # on them, they are interchangable (still doesn't make them any more fun to remove). Swap a good one in and see what happens. Hopefully the car runs again.
Then it's simply a matter of replacing a relay. Actually lets backtrack 1 step first. There are 2 to check. The first is for the PHR. It's the Black/Orange wire on the negative battery terminal. But if this guy is bad you'll notice other things not working.
All this stuff: If any of that is working, the ground is good. So on to the next, the ground for the FPDM (the real FPDM).
It's a solid black wire coming from the module and grounds under the rear seat, flip it up and pull the carpet on the passenger side back. You'll see this box (left of the fuel pump): The ground is the one on the L bracket. Remove it, clean it with some emery cloth and put it back, just to make sure, you're there so why not.
Turn the key and see what happens. If nothing them move on to the above relays. These 2 are what I'm thinking are the issue.
There is one more thing that could be the issue with fuel pump power though, the actual ignition switch. Copyright 2002-2015 FocusFanatics.com.
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